旦暮庁 TANBO-CHŌ

Introduction

Kumihimo is a general term for all types of Japanese braided cord, flat and round. Other cord-making methods include yorihimo (‘twisted cord’), amihimo (‘knitted cord’), orihimo (‘woven cord’), and kukehimo (‘whipped cord’).  

Yubi-kumihimo (Japanese palms-up loop-manipulation braiding), sometimes modernly called kute-uchi, was a very common method used from early times to create cord. Illustrations sometimes include a foot-beater called a heshiki or ashiuchidai to tighten the weave. 

There is no direct evidence of the use of the marudai or most other braiding stands in pre-1600 Japan, but the karakumidai (Chinese braiding stand, a square peg board) was in use by the Heian period. Some less common braiding stands are detailed here.

Jōmon period (14,000-300 BCE)

• evidence of twisted cord and simple braids as impressions on pottery
• cords seen on clothing of clay haniwa figurines may be braids rather than cloth or leather ties

Asuka, Nara periods (538-710, 710-794 CE)

• many braid styles brought from China via Korea
• yotsu-gumi, yattsu-gumi, kaku-yattsu-gumi, nara-gumi, shiragi-gumi (anda-gumi), korai-gumi, tsune-gumi, sasanami-gumi
• some of these are still preserved at Hōryū Temple and the Shōsō-in
• mostly square braids
• used for tying clothing, hanging small personal items, bag ties, armor lacing
• wide, flat sashes occasionally incorporated tiny glass beads

Heian period (794-1185 CE)

• era of peace and leisure for artistic development and invention of uniquely Japanese braids
• kara-gumi, mitake-gumi, chusonji-gumi, shitennoji-gumi, mitake-ryomen-kikko-gumi
• common colors included lilac, magenta, blue, green, gold, orange, brown, cream
• hirao sashes developed, worn only by the highest nobility, made on the karakumidai
• monks made cords for sutra scrolls and talismans as a form of meditation

Kamakura period (1185-1333 CE)

• cord for armor needed to be produced quickly during this era of civil war
• marugenji-gumi
• Armor cord was sometimes indigo-dyed for extra strength
• sword grips with kikko design (tortoiseshell motif was symbolic of long life)

Muromachi period (1336-1573 CE)

Azuchi-Momoyama period (1573-1603 CE)

• cord was used to create complex knots on tea vessels, so that the tea could not be poisoned
• continued to be essential for armor, clothing, and other items of daily life

For further information, check out:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/KnownWorldLoopManipulation

https://greeknakos.wixsite.com/kuteuchirevival

https://loopbraider.com/category/loop-braiding/hand-held-loop-braiding/kute-uchi

References:

Sahashi, Kei, ed. Exquisite: The World of Japanese Kumihimo Braiding. New York: Kodansha International, 1988.

Martin, Catherine. Kumihimo: Japanese Silk Braiding Techniques. Asheville: Lark, 1991.

Kinoshita, Masako. Nihon Kumihimo Kogihō no Kenkyū. Kyōto: Kyōto Shōin, 1994.